
Hubbie and friends gone hiking to Kalalau this weekend. Kalalau is an 11-mile hike up and down I don’t know how many valleys to a secluded momma valley and a huge expanse of beach about a ¼ mile deep. The deep green of those sculpted valleys are amazing and a lot of people think the place has some kind of spiritual healing power. An enclave of hippies lives there illegally, living off the food that hikers leave behind. The last time I went to Kalalau I had the rare pleasure of meeting the “librarian” of Kalalau, a rolly polly Santa Claus of a man who I got to see nudie tudes in one of the rest pools. He discretely covered himself with his water bottle and turned the other way hoping we would not stop. There is always drama around Kalalau because you’re only supposed to be in the valley if you have a permit but it takes a year to get a permit so no one has a permit. So every now and again the DLNR (Department of Land and Natural Resources) will send in a helicopter and conduct a raid, instructing all campers without a permit to vacate the valley. This apparently has happened sometimes in the middle of the night, meaning hikers have to begin hiking 11 miles out in the middle of the night. I’m not quite sure exactly how that works.
The last time this weekend’s group attempted Kalalau, the trip resulted in disaster. Joy’s boyfriend accidently set her on fire when he tried to light a stove inside his tent. Then in a feeble attempt to put out the burn, he threw some dirt on her. Not realizing there was a rock in the dirt, he cut a gash into her leg. Despite the accident (and major downpours), the group continued hiking the next day, but apparently the shin-high waters made it difficult to move forward (you think?) and they were able to only get another mile in. Amazingly, Joy continued to date that boyfriend for another two years, but she has a new boy now and this time I think they’ll be fine. It’s summer (not rainy season). Brian’s got his new ultra-light backpack and tent. Virginia’s ready for anything having just climbed Kilamanjaro. Joy and Brad have been training by stuffing rocks in their backpacks on day hikes. Terence, the mountain man, will be fine. And Chad, well, he says hiking is easy... Anyway, I wish I could be there and my heart is with them these four days while they are out of any cell phone reception.
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just got back from kalalau late last night. everyone made it back safe and sound, and i think everyone agreed that it exceeded expectations!
we had really great weather first of all. even though rain was forecast it was dry except for some portions of the hike when the cool rain was actually welcome.
I think a real unexpected hightlight was that we actually managed to catch an octopus, used it for bait and had fresh caught snapper that night for dinner (steamed with ginger and soy sauce!). Joy even caught an elusive oio/bonefish the next day! Virginia was set to make fishcake(!) but after some photos we ended up releasing him.
After my last trip there I had been wanting to go back to swim around the bend at the end of Kalalau to another beach with a giant sea arch and waterfall, so we went early in the day to catch the calmer waters and managed to make it over there to explore the expansive deserted beach in the afternoon! The beauty of the red and black cliffs against the blue sky and ocean with the glowing green of the naupakapaka was simply unbelievable. it looked like a cg scene out of some movie.
The last night we moved camp sites to one with the Kalalau valley cliffs as a backdrop and overlooking Kalalau stream, the ocean and Kalalau beach and enjoyed the sunset from there. It was a campsite out of an Outside magazine photo spread.
Besides the weather, the other main thing was that the group also just got along well. It was a great trip to remember. Often thought about how much you would have enjoyed it as well, and wish you could have been there to share it with us.
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